The label has never needed to collaborate before, but it prizes itself on developing and going forward. In an article by honeyee the web magazine, the house states that "Our structure and our system of various lines enables to express out creativity on different levels and allows us to create the balance and coexistence between commercial and creative interests." This is key in understanding the capsule collection developed by the house for the store Opening Ceremony, a small Japanese-American chain that houses a bevy of innovative and fashion-forward brands. In going ahead, Margiela will continue to have things to express and seeing as how collaborations are proving great for promoting cult talents, a pairing with such a small renown chain seems natural.
This collection is a capsule collection in the true sense of a capsule collection. It's small in nature with interchangeable pieces. The collection is only for women this round (sorry fellas) and tells a strong story of layering. The core outerwear of the collection consists of two pieces, one faux fur knee length coat and one quilted moto jacket, that both have nylon liners underneath. However, each liner can be worn as a jacket and each style has the fabrication of its faux fur or quilted leather topper attached to it from the elbow down like gauntlets. It showcases the six different ways the coats can be worn and layered. The layering story was continued with a bright red tunic over a satiny skirt that once the top was removed, revealed how the skirt was part of a dress, how the tunic was cut in a halter style and how the sleeves of the tunic remained to become an entire blouse underneath. With this collection as always, Margiela introduced its wearers to new perspectives in dress and layering with leather stirrups that merge with boots and a snap away leather bag that affords the wearer to decide how much bag she wants to don. Peppered throughout the rest of the collection are wonderful paired down Margiela staple separates like amazingly fuzzy cable knits, color-blocked wool knit tunic/dresses, leg-warmers that can pose as trousers, zip front cardigan/vest ensembles, 'switchable' bibbed trousers and 'optical illusion' leather meets denim jean hybrids. A great story on the strength, interchangeability and versatility of layering, which is an essential and modern approach to a sellable, well thought-out capsule collection.
Innovative? Always! Must one pay attention? Yes! In the hands of Margiela, Opening Ceremony has a collection that will further offer their informed savvy consumers not just premium pieces from an iconic label, but also ideas to dress more logically and enlightened. In the hands of Opening Ceremony, Maison Martin Margiela will have a broader range of admirers; but not too broad, afterall this is creativity, not fashion.