Good design doesn't grow on trees; apples and oranges do. However, like our favorite fruits of opposite, good design may be obvious from the onset but it takes time to develop good design into an even better collection. Then after a series of great collections filled with consistently good designs, customer gravitation towards a label creates a good brand. Good brands grow on to hopefully leave lasting impressions which become great legacies.
Relative newcomer Simon Spurr is in his great collection stage of growth. His Fall 2011 collection was another validation that he is a capable and talented designer who is able to consistently blend his keen hand for British tailoring with an American sportswear attitude.
Spurr has an eye for taking the classic 'by the book' tailoring pomp and breathing open air into it through fit, fabric and with this latest collection, a touch of whimsy.
There was a message of casual in the layering of knit hoods over crisp suits sans overcoat and long knit gloves over shirts sans jacket. The message was that 'uptight was for our dads, so have fun with your tailoring'. This was further emphasized through the presence of light subtle color in updated windowpanes and plaids on suits. Outerwear was given a modern sprinkle of cool with slim naval pea coats, a great one executed in a narrow short lambskin, a wonderfully thin long & light colored shearling and a vibrant tannish orange sueded shortened belted military field jacket. Spurr also had fun with the traditional cutaway jacket which looked cooler in a slate grey and paired with knitwear sans shirt & tie. This was a great collection for wardrobe building with some great slim suits, a few in three piece, and yummy chunky knitwear like cable knit turtlenecks and bomber-style hoodies in sweet fall shades.
I see Spurr as part of the new crop of designers reinventing menswear by challenging what we've been programmed to believe are the only places where tailoring can go. Retailers, editors and consumers are catching wind of his growing harvest. Reap definitely what you sew.
|Nod of approval from the Divine Ms. Wintour|