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Friday, March 4, 2011

Where it Begins = How it Fits in

It all makes sense.  I remember reading a pictoral biography book on the designs of Giorgio Armani when in college.  His design process did not begin with a great idea for a skirt or a quirky new maneuver for hemming a jacket.  Rather, it began when he would sit down with hundreds and maybe now thousands of bolts of fabric and become inspired.  It would almost be like aromatherapy in a sense.  You enter a space, smell an aroma and the combination of herbs, oils or essences would appeal to your olafactory and trigger something in the brain that either relaxed or transferred you or simply repulsed you.  I think designing, for Armani,  and for many an accomplished designer is the same way.  It all starts with the fabric in order to be inspired to conform it to the body as an article of clothing.  This has to be the case with Italo Zucchelli of Calvin Klein Collection Menswear.

What works for Zucchelli and would be a dream for countless designers is that Calvin Klein has their own Italian Mill.  Carte Blanche creativity!  For his Fall 2011 collection, he seemed to be inspired by materials that different cross-sections of men may come into contact with everyday.  He then transformed them into forward, innovative and comfortable menswear that still contrived to the minimal aesthetic of the Calvin Klein label.





Once the pre-show frenzy settled down, out came the troop of models appropriately attired in a well rounded winter collection.  Zucchelli continued his fearless fascination of full color with heathered olives, ash-kissed burgandies, cherry reds, electric blues and cement-sidewalk greys.  His textures and shapes ran the gamut from plush duvet inspired belted trenches and soft foam-like coated narrow suits to voluminous true waist anoraks and full-cut cozy pull overs with complementary full pants that evoked an intelligent look at winterized sporty chic.  His latest fabric combinations take the collection from crosshatch melange nylons and bonded double wools to rubber print wool cashmeres and laminated nylons.


The overall themes were of softness mixed with strength, confidence and modern fabric innovation all under the marquis of minimalism.  You got the sense that Zucchelli was outfitting his modern male cosmopolitan with a buffered wardrobe for when the hustle of city living knocks him to and from.

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