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Sunday, March 4, 2012

Tailor's Chalk

There's always one menswear staple that never dies.  It's been redone, resized, shortened and lengthened and then shortened again just as much as a woman's hemline over the years.  Further, it's been nipped, shrunken, made boxy and cutaway much to the likes and dislikes of the stark traditionalists and progressive modernists alike.  However, while the framework has remained the same visually, the bevy of ways to put the framework together began changing as slow as the decades and now changes as quickly as a high speed download.  No matter which way you prefer this staple, some things remain almost a mathematical constant.  Good fit X Good fabric X Skilled tailor = Great Suit!

For Fall 2012 American Menswear designers are continuing to heighten the love affair with the well-rounded sharp dressed man and they've offered up something for all purveyors of tailoring from Saville Row Simulators to new dandy Americans.  Tailor's chalk another one up for the ubiquitous suit!

Three Piece a Charm - Three piece suits offer more bang for your buck.  The addition of a vest looks great with other American heritage pieces like patterned sportcoats, indigo denim, under cable cardigans, paired with khakis and coordinated with patterned sport shirts.



 L to R: Simon Spurr, Loden Dager and Joseph Abboud


Simon Spurr and Michael Bastian


The Appropriate Topper - Overcoats and Outerwear can be a perfect way to complement a suit and a fun way to make a stern suit more lighthearted through proportion.


L to R: Joseph Abboud, Billy Reid and Just Cavalli 


L to R: Michael Kors, Simon Spurr and McQ


Not The Professor's Sportcoat - Sportcoats are just the touch needed sometimes to give off a tailored air while still remaining not too formal.  Whether the silhouette mocked is from a tuxedo, shawl or notched collar, sportcoats are a sartorial step above a the mundane sweater and with the more modern trimmer fits offered for Fall 2012, they're also a whole lot cooler.

L to R: J. Crew, Ovadia & Sons and Carlos Campos


Ovadia & Sons


Knight in Harris Tweed- Not that I have anything against a great worsted or a Super 100's wool but there is definitely a softness that when tailored well, exudes a strength when dealing with flannels, tweeds and textured wools.  Add that to a suit and now you have the cozier side of the modern suited knight.



L to R:  Duckie Brown, Patrik Ervell and Hyden Yoo


 L to R: Loden Dager, Marc by Marc Jacobs and J. Crew


L to R: Todd Snyder, Ovadia & Sons and Steven Alan


N. Hoolywood and Public School


Ownership- Probably one of the strongest things proposed by the American designers for Fall 2012 is the potential for men to see that suit details can shake the curmudgeon persona and allow you to add more personality to your closet.  Lapel trims, modern layering and standout color-blocking all make accessorizing and wearing the suit as separates that much more fun.


L to R: Just Cavalli, Carlos Campos and Michael Bastian 


L to R: Tommy Hilfiger, Loden Dager, Tommy Hilfiger


 L to R: Rad by Rad Hourani, Siki Im, Rag & Bone


*Photos courtesy of Style.com




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