So I started saying about five years ago to friends that I wanted Jean Paul Gaultier to have some young blood to pick-up the verve that his line once had. I also, for the past few seasons said that Bill Gaytten seemed too reserved for Dior and Galliano, whereas Galliano was a firebrand of raging wildfire proportions. Well it seems that someone somewhere might have been listening to my pleas. However, instead of getting new blood Gaultier seems to have channeled the time when his blood was younger and Gaytten, free from the pressure of Dior, was able to adopt that 'devil may care' attitude that flipped wigs at John Galliano.
Both designers showed interesting and overall clever collections. Gaultier's was fun, campy and reminiscent of the icons that many today try to copy, while Gaytten came out the box channeling the Galliano spirit with a controlled free form. It was interesting to see how Gaultier offered classics like his innovative tailoring and paired down fetish wear which seemed right in place again with today's need for showy and cheeky. He showcased pop icons like Bowie, Grace, Madonna, MJ, Kiss and Boy George in honed Gaultier fashion. Gaytten showcased how he's a skilled designer whose talents at Galliano may have been overshadowed before by the higher-up's desire for an overly commercial Dior collection. His Galliano customer is a bit more wild and liberated than the Dior customer which could explain why his collection was more Gaytten channeling the Galliano spirit than Gaytten redoing Galliano. The dusty hues, large scale prints, intense draping and ethereal lightness of the collection was a great story of remixed Eastern notions of form meets modern Western sensibilities.
*Photos Courtesy of Style.com.