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Dark Rising: Elliott Evan Fall/Winter 2013 Collection Review


There's been a rising menswear movement on the horizon.  Granted there have always been those rogue rebels who've never varied from the script but now it's just a matter of timing in some cases.  The Goth or Avant movement in menswear is not new.  Rick Owens, for example, has been offering exaggerated shapes with dark or avant aesthetics for years.  So while he has always been that brilliant odd man out, he now moves on to be that still brilliant veteran inspiring others to develop otherworldly shapes, innovate with fabrics and break down the visual morays of the jacket, pant and shirt trifecta for men.

What's interesting to note is how this kind of free from dressing is like a merging of styles.  It's a bit of Greek and Middle Eastern with a dash of modern, a bit futuristic a bit vintage inspired and a touch androgynous.  However, the visuals are provocative, the fabrics inviting and the shapes are comfortable almost evocative of sleepwear.  This is modern Goth to me and this was also Elliott Evan's Fall 2013 Mens Collection.

Free form was definitely in full effect with this collection as many garment done in leather were not finished but left with the natural meandering of the skin's edge on jacket and sleeve hems.  This played in rather coolly with the wrapped leg dropped crotch trousers and swaddling effect of the collection.  I say swaddling since the models has a wrapped up look to them.  Swaddled like babies but with inky nylons, fade dyed, embossed and perforated skins and cottons and gravelly sweater knits, the effect was more like swaddled for modern battle like protective armor.  

The Elliott Evan Fall/Winter 2013 collection was full of those avant shapes that have come to define Goth menswear just updated through insightful cut and layering.  The mystery, the intrigue, the drama was there which makes a collection like this so different from say that of a nattily tailored suit collection.  However, peaked lapel or not, it's still menswear, and it represents a dynamic of change in which more men are gravitating towards as the liberation in mens clothing continues.

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