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Tuesday, February 26, 2013

Tribes In The Hood: Raif Adelberg Fall/Winter 2013 Collection Review


There are may things to love about certain neighborhoods in the city.  The best neighborhoods to me however are the ones where no one has stayed inside their box.  Boxes, while comfortable, get boring and expanding outside of them allow us to be inspired by different cultural influences.  After a while those neighborhoods become signified not by the race of the people but how the people have gravitated to the mix of clothing, food and lifestyle within that neighborhood.  

Take the LES for example!  The basketball courts at Roosevelt Park at any given time are mixed with all races of guys playing ball and Tompkins Square Park is a virtual melting pot of all cultures and walks of life from skaters to artists.   It's this mixing of lives where life is just played out and enjoyed irregardless of racial or cultural difference to the point where the Korean sneakerhead who listens to hip hop finds a common ground with the Black guy who skates and loves to deejay or the Puerto Rican cat who loves dim sum and dub-step.  A tribe is created. 

Raif Adelberg was inspired by tribes for his Fall/Winter 2013 Collection.  While he may have likened his show's theme to Native American tribes, what struck me as a modern day tribe association is his unbiased combinations.  Mr. Adelberg combined novelty knits, classic wools and leathers to his designs that created visuals which blurred the lines between woven and knit.  There was a mash of patterns as well like checkerboards with horizontal striped knits and stipple effect knits with nordic prints.  The shapes were progressive with loose and dropped crotch trousers paired with outerwear like trim solid and patterned pea coats, a leather moto-jacket and heavy knit cozy cardigans.  It was these novelty knit cardigans with a hand-knit sumptuous feel to them that made a strong case for layering, knits as the outer shell and eclecticism through texture and drape.  

Finishing off the tribal nod were bevies of chunky and textural scarves, knit wrappings reminiscent of leg warmers and mocassins, braided knit chains attached to garments and even a muff.  The idea was to use a tribal aesthetic to communicate the cohesiveness of tribal behaviors analogous with the cohesiveness of ideas of knits to wovens, textures to prints and full-cuts to tapered in developing a modern man for Fall 2013.     


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