Protection is on the brain. Not protection like a security guard or an alarm system. More like security like how we equip ourselves to defend what's we want to remain protected. Consider, for example, the uniform of a football player. Shoulder pads, athletic cups, elbow pads and helmets all serve to protect that players' bodily appendages. If we were discussing a soldier then we'd have to delve into the protection offered up by rations, ammunition and body armor. However, what about everyday? How do we protect ourselves through dress in our everyday hustle? Protection for the body can take many varied forms and it's interesting to see how interpretations of protection in fashion and adornment can create personas and defenses.
This was my first thought upon seeing the presentation/show from Sir New York for Fall/Winter 2013. The collection at first glance was literally about great shapes, interesting textures and a youthful verve. However, when pondered deeper and together with the presentation, it was obvious that the clothing subtly showcased a stage for the ways in which young men dress to heighten aggression, conquer gender role through confident masculinity and celebrate a new masculine standard.
Designer Auston Bjorkman offered clothing that was appropriately aggressive in color, in a good way though. The color palette consisted of mostly black, white and gold print which evoked a strong downtown after-hours Gothic mood while special 'under the microscope' prints by Ross Schaner created a frenetic vivid energy. Trim layers like tapered trousers, textured novelty knit and printed leggings shown under trim Bermuda-style shorts and tops like shrunken bolero style technical outerwear and streamlined tunics called for men to continue to shake the stigma of the hyper-masculine oversized and embrace confident shapes that celebrated a youthful, toned and athletic exuberance.
Then Bjorkman built upon the new growing male standard of offering active shapes that were pared down and walked the fine lines between outerwear and inner wear. Fabrications like textured and slick neoprene, white jersey, french terries, gold mesh and nubbly electromagnetic print alpaca knits told a story of active textures for the young modern consumer to connect with in both the familiar and the new ways. All of this was anchored by hard-hitting high tops imitating combat and moto-style boots in detail with the comfort and cool edginess that Android Homme has become known for.
I always like what Sir New York offers since the line lives up to its name. The collections always have the feeling of New York to them. A New York that many New Yorkers never get to see if they go to bed too early. However, embarkments like Sir New York serve to make dark, cool and introspective clothing for day as well night appropriate.
Sir New York Designer Auston Bjorkman