Some military organizations equip their members with camouflage, weapons & artillery and tactics to complete their intended mission. It leaves me to wonder of the fascination repeat customers have with those designers who've garnered a cult-like following. Surrounding the armed forces are expectations on quality and output that those familiar and those new to the organization come to rely on, feel comfortable with and feel safe by. The same can be true of a great label that continually offers not only wearable but also stylishly and visually provocative clothing with an aesthetic that translates across genres of menswear with clarity and common sense.
Season after season, Nicholas K delivers menswear that walks on an interesting line between tailored formality and casual sensibility. Tailored formality is maintained through the attention to trim streamlined fits on sleeves and jackets, the seamless melding of collars into lapels and the various topper silhouettes that have transformed menswear over the years. The casual sensibilities take shape in the knits that appear as wovens, the polished refinement of the often downplayed sweat pant and the ability to transform tailored symmetry to swaddling cozy coolness with the unzipping or unbuttoning of a placket.
All this applied to Nicholas K Menswear for Fall 2013. Updating the Nicholas K aesthetic for fall was the influence from early 20th century Arctic explorations by expeditions of such notables like Peter Freuchen and the inky murky palette. Their color palette for fall is like starting off with black icy water and slowly adding natural elements that lighten it like mud or clays. The effect is a smooth gradation of great somber colors of clothing in highly wearable shapes that stand strong alone as well as look great being integrated into a man's already existing wardrobe. Some new interesting notables this season were the cocoon-like knit half shrugs, great aviator style flight jackets and an air of spongy easy coziness that you almost will want to pair with high tailoring as well as jeans, tees and well-worn khakis. The coup that the Kunz' have started continues to enlist and enthrall.