In Fall 2012 Mens Trends

The Emperor's New Pullover

Some call it a pullover and essentially that's what you do with it.  In Britain its called a jumper.  In the States its called a sweater.  For Fall 2012 call it whatever you wish but just make sure you own a few.  Sweaters, or jumpers if you will, have always been a part of a man's wardrobe first for hunting and leisure then trickling on to collegiate and so on and so forth.

Menswear Designers for Fall 2012 explored the ideas of what a sweater is to a man's wardrobe: a layering piece, a option to a blazer or even a statement piece.  What was refreshing to see was the several ways in which designers played with our common notions of what a sweater should be fashioned from, what should go under it or what it should be coordinated with in a man's overall wardrobe.  When further notice is taken, certain fabrications and finishes make the traditional wearing of a sweater a cause for a reevaluation in layering and certain proportions cause for realizing new ways to mock the coordination of a suit.

New Skin
Normally held for jackets and outerwear, the push for leather and suede on a pullover silhouette plays with the consumer's idea of how leather should be used and creates an interplay between inner and outerwear while making a case for the tactile appeal of a skin cut closer to the torso in an unconventional way. 

L to R: Jil Sander, Calvin Klein, Neil Barrett

 L to R: Louis Vuitton, Givenchy, Lanvin

With appearances like a t-shirt but in fabrics normally attributed to tailoring and outerwear the short sleeve pullover plays with the idea of the casual appeal of a tee marrying itself with the more serious idea of menswear thereby creating greater dialogue for inventive layering and textural playing. 

L to R: Acne, Alexandre Plokhov, Richard Chai Love

 L to R: DSquared, Acne

Sometimes in the fall and even winter there are those sweaters that banish the need for a jacket as long as the extremities are protected.  A thick sweater can elevate itself to role of outerwear yet still play in the world of sportswear or even eliminate the need for heavy outerwear by allowing the wearer the don lighter protective layers.

 L to R: McQ, DSquared, Hermes

L to R: Neil Barrett, Moncler Grenoble, Band of Outsiders

L to R: Moncler Grenoble and Pringle of Scotland

Mock The Suit
Menswear sort of revolves around the suit.  The sweater can sometimes serve to break up a suit's rigidity or allow trousers to be worn as separates.  The following designers are exploring trousers juxtaposed with matching knitwear or knitwear forms thereby creating a more casual coordination story in the spirit of a suit.

L to R: Salvatore Ferragamo, Kenzo, YSL

Texture and Print
Whether on a woven or on a knit, wool or even nylon these designers used technology, artistry and clever craftsmanship to create the sweater as that cool focal piece.  

L to R: Paul Smith, Burberry Prorsum, Alexander Wang

L to R: Duckie Brown, Paul Smith, Vivienne Westwood

L to R: JW Anderson, Kenzo, Dries Van Noten

Some are subtle, so if you don't pay attention you'll miss them.  Some are in your face and dares you to miss them.  Others you just won't get until you own them.  They are the details such as Raf's engineered wider neckline, Tisci for Givenchy's linear harmony or Nichanian's subtle shoulder at Hermes. 

L to R: Givenchy, Raf Simons, Hermes

L to R: YSL, Rad by Rad Hourani, Raf Simons

Patrik Ervell

*Photos courtesy of 

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In Fall 2012 Mens Trends

Good As New

Isn't the way snow lingers (or doesn't) a bit inspiring?  There's something very wabi-sabi about the way whatever the snow was covering is revealed once again as though new upon its melting.  Similarly there's something quite ghostlike about the way the dusting of a snowfall covers leaves like fog covering a ship in the harbor.  The simple dusting or remnants of that perfect white gives off an unfinished or faded aura that when paired against the contrasting things in nature and our everyday lives seem almost like an eerie yet peaceful dance.

Similarly, I find it fascinating how things get dirty, aged or weathered.  The riding saddle bleached by the sun, the building tops graduated in soot or the handle of your workbag stained from perspiration again all tell a story in that wabi-sabi way of how the surface may change but the value of the article beneath still exists.  Even the grooved lines in skin show age but also embodies character and experience.  What strikes us as so artistically intriguing from the snow and nature to nature, age and wear is how it is such a natural progression unforced by our hands and at the mercy of time and the elements.

For Fall 2012, some menswear designers used their creative talents in recreating signs of distress, fading, frosting and soiling on their appropriate medium of choice.  What's beautiful about the techniques are that they're seamless which adds levels of both mystery and beauty together with an air of patient artisanal craftsmanship.  Whether it was woven, knit or skin the following designers are artistically aware of the harmony that can exist in the natural order of life and the environment.

 L to R:  Ann Demeulemeester, Carlos Campos and Band of Outsiders

L to R: Carlos Campos, Robert Geller and Ann Demeulemeester

L to R: Issey Miyake, Ann Demeulemeester and Just Cavalli

L to R: Rag n Bone, Robert Geller and Raf Simons

 L to R: John Varvatos, Rag n Bone and Versace

 L to R: Salvatore Ferragamo, John Varvatos and Iceberg

 *Photo courtesy of

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